Pattern-drafting device



2 Shee1 a s Sheet. '1.

(No Model.)

H. H. TAYLOR.

PATTERN DRAFTING DEVICE.

Patented NovQBO, 1897.

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2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

H. H. TAYLOR. PATTERN DRAPTING DEVICE.

No. 594.443. Patented Nov. 30, 1897..

m: nonms PETERS w" i'normuma. WASHINGTON. n. c.

I UNIT D STATES PATE T FFICE.

I-IIRAM HERSOHEL TAYLOR, OF MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

PATTERN- DRAFTl N G DEVICE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 594,443, dated November30, 1897.

Application filed April 22, 1897- Serial No. 633,382. (No model.)

' and State of New Hampshire, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Pattern-Drafting Devices; and I do declare the followingto be a full, clear, and exact descrip: tion of the invention, such aswill enable others skilled in the art to'which it appertains to make anduse the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and tothe lettersof reference marked thereon, which form a part of thisspecification.

This invention relates to the drafting of patterns for wearing-apparel,and contemplates the provision of improved means by which the materialof a garment may be accurately out to conform to differing sizes andproportions, as required.

The. nature ofthe invention is fully disclosed in the following detaileddescription, which is to be read in connection with the accompanyin gdrawin gs,in which are illustrated six charts, designated, respectively,as Figures 1, 2, 3, 4c, 5, and 6.

Referring to the said drawings by letter, A A denote rows ofperforations, preferably five in number, which are employed in obtainingthe neck dimension. These perforations are, as shown in Fig. 1, radiallydisposed and determine the dimension of the front of the neck, and at Ain Fig. 2 is a line of perforations set on an irregular curve, whichforms the back of the neck and cooperates with the perforations A. At B,Fig. 6, is shown a curved form which is used to shape the lines of theneck and also of the arm-scye.

Forobtaining the dimension and shape of the shoulder portion there areprovided rows of perforations G. C, Fig. 1, which are set on ellipticcircles, and at 0', Fig. 2, isv a single row of perforations set on acompound curve. The rows 0 are for the front and the row 0' for theback, and together the rows determine the correct height of theshoulder. The length and shape of .the shoulder is determined by'the useof the graduated scale D on the front and the graduated scale D on theback. These scales are arranged on a compound curve, and the back scaleis preferably extended beyond the front scale in order that the frontportion of the garment may in making be slightly stretched to conform inlength to the back to secure in the finished. garment aperfectly-fitting shoulder.

E, Fig. 1, and E, Fig. 2, denote rows of perforations for use inobtaining the dimension of the chest and to locate the position of theunder-arm seam at the point where the back and front join at thearm-scye. The row F, Fig. 1, determines the position of the armscyeaccording to the measurement of the chest. The row G, Fig. 1, isemployed to locate the position and height of the arm-scye, and also todetermine the height of the darts by the .use in connection therewith ofthe dart-scale hereinafter to be described. The

arm-scye is shaped by the useof the form B,

as previously set forth.

H, Fig. 1, and H, Fig. 2, represent rows of perforations employed todetermine the location of the under-arm line at the point where thefront and back are joined at the line of waist.

I, Fig. 1, is a graduated scale on lines which are portions of ellipticcircles. This scale is at the back edge of the front, and on the forwardedge of the back is a graduated scale I, which, with the scale I,enables the position of the waist-line to be accurately determined froma givenpoint'at the arm-scye. The figures on the scale correspond withthe underarm measurement in inches, and the line of the scale is such asto enable the proper shaping of the under-arm lines.

At J, Fig. 1, on the front edge of the chart, is a graduated scale, theedge and scale having a compound curvedform. This shape of edge and thescale determine the correct position of the waist-line in front, whichis to be measured from the point of intersection of the front and necklines, the divisions and figures on the scale corresponding with thefront measurement in inches taken from the neck to the bottom of thewaist in front. This front line of waist is also determined by the theproper shaping of the front or dividing line of the garment.

At L, Fig. 1, is a line of perforations which are used for determiningthe width between the front or dividing line and the front dart. In themaking of garments with a tailor back the proper curves for theform-seam are obtained by the use of the line M, Fig. 1, which joins theshoulder-line with the back edge. This line M has the form of anelliptic circle and is reversed when used 'for the purpose justmentioned.

The back edge of the back, Fig. 2, is employed for securing the line forthe center of the back, and is. provided with a graduated scale N todetermine the position of the waistline from the point of intersectionof the back and neck line. The waist-line at this point is alsodetermined by the waist-line obtained by the employment of the under-armscale and measurement and the graduated scale edge 0 at the bottom ofthe back. This scale 0 is also employed to locate the position oftheform-seam at the waist-line. It will be noticed that the scales N and Oare arranged at right angles to each other and permit the use of thesquare when required.

Fig. 3 shows the dart-scale previously referred to. In said scale aretwo rows of perforations P P, which are on small portions of ellipticcircles. These perforations are numbered to correspond with the figureson the scale employed for determining the chest measure and aregraduated in such a manner as to obtain the proper space requiredbetween the top of darts regardless of the chest measurement. At Q Q aredouble rows of perforations divided by graduated spaces set on smallportions of elliptic circles, and rows are connected by lines which areemployed in obtaining the positions for the lines of darts at thewaist-line and which are graduated in such a manner as to take out therequired fullness in front at said line.

At B, Fig. 3, is a perforation employed for locating the turn of thecompound curve in the front line of the back dart.

The edge S of the dart-scale is of compound curve form, and differentportions of said curved edge are employed in shaping the curves of thelines of darts and also in obtaining the proper shape of curved linesover the hip below the waist-line, and also in obtaining the lines onthe form-seam when required. The reverse side of the edge S, Fig. at,has thereon a graduated scale S and is used to obtain the proper shapeof the back line of the front dart. On the opposite side is a graduatedscale S which is employed to determine the correct hipmeasure or anyother measure by inches. In planning the position and size of the dartthe edge S is placed at the impression made through one of theperforations Q and at a point on the waist-line indicated by animpression made through a perforation R. After drafting the darts theremaining space back thereof on the front is divided into two equalparts, and a plain under-arm bias is then taken out measuring one andone-half inches at waist-line and one-half inch at arm-scye, making thetwo parts in front and the form-piece of the back of equal width at thewaist-line. By taking fiveeighths of an inch from the back and adding itto the front at the waist-line there can be made two biases ofthree-fourths of an inch at the Waist-line and one-fourth of an inch atthe arm-scye, thereby giving two under-arm pieces instead of the one andmaking the three parts in front and the form-piece in back of equalwidths at the waist-line. By adding to the back dart and to the back ofthe front of draft the French bias can be obtained and without extrafitting. In drafting below the waist-line the actual measurement isused, with the employment of the curved edge S of the dart-scale forshaping the proper curved lines over the hip, or in lieu of the edge Sthe curved form may be employed, the result being a perfect fit belowthe waist-line as well as above said line.

The curved form 13, Fig. 6, has its outer edge B and its inner edge Bcurved on lines which are portions of elliptic circles and, aspreviously stated, is employed in drafting the shape of the neck andarm-scye and the lines of the hip below the waist-line. It is also usedin drafting the top of the sleeve in a childs garment.

The sleeve-chart is shown in Fig. 5. The dilferent sizes and locationsfor the sleeve are obtained by the use of rows of perforations set oncurves on graduated scales. The first row U from the front or inside atthe top is employed to determine the location of the front line of theupper and under sides of the sleeve-draft at the arm-scye. The secondrow U from the front or inside is used to locate the back line of underside of sleeve at the arm-scye. The back row U is employed to locate theback line of the upper side of sleeve at the arm-scye. These three rowsU U U determine the size of the sleeve at the top of the arm, thefigures on the scale corresponding with measure ment of said top. Therow U which is the third from the front or inside, is used to obtain thehighest point of curve at the top of the sleeve. The front or insidedouble row U, is employed to locate the position of the front line atthe inside curve opposite the elbow of both the upper and under side ofthe sleeve. The next double row U is used to locate the position of theback line, and also the point of elbow on the under side of the sleeve.The back double row U is employed to locate the position of the backline and also the point of the elbow of the upper side of sleeve. Thesethree rows together determine the size of thesleeve at the elbow, thefigures on the scale to correspond with the elbow measurement. The firstrow U from the front or inside at the bottom is employed to locate theposition of the front line of sleeve.

at the hand of both the upper and under side of the sleeve. locate theposition of the back of the under side of the sleeve at the hand. Theback row U is used to locate the back line of the upper side of thesleeve. These three rows together determine the size of the sleeves atthe hand, the figures on the scale corresponding with the handmeasurement. The scale of inches V on the inside or front curved edge isused for obtaining the length of the front of the sleeve from the.arm-scye to the inside bend of the arm opposite the elbow and to thebottom of the sleeve, according to the measurement taken, and the curvedline is used to properly shape the front line The scale .V on theoutside is used for obtaining the length of the outside or back of thesleeve from the arm-scye to the elbow and to the bottom of the sleeve,according to the measurement taken, and the curvedform of the edge isused for shaping the back lineof both the upper and under side ofsleeve. In drafting a sleeve for an arm of large proportionsthe line onthe back of the sleeve above the elbow is inverted to curve said linethe opposite way, thereby giving more fullness at the top ofthe sleeve.The top line WV is curved for shaping the lines at the top of the sleevebetween the back and front and the bottom line WV is em ployed to draftthe line of the bottom of the sleeve between the front and back lines.

From the foregoing it will be evident to those skilled in the art thatby my invention the greatest accuracy may be obtained both 7 in thedrafting of the necessary patterns and in the making of the garment, andin addition it may be stated that it is unnecessary that a garment whenout after my invention be tried on the wearer.

The invention involves the same rules that govern in the geometricalmethod for obtaining the elliptic circle by the intersection ofgraduated lines at right angles, and involves also the use of the steelsquare.

I claim as my invention- 1. A drafting device for apparel-patternshaving a series of perforations placed on portions of elliptic circlesand compound curves,

The second row U is used to respectively, and graduated scales set oncompound curves, substantially as specified.

2. The drafting device for apparel-patterns, having the radiating rowsof perforations at the neck, the rows of perforations at the shoulder,set on elliptic circles, the graduated scale at the shoulder arranged ona compound curve, the rows of perforations for the chest and arm-scyemeasurement, respectively, the row of under-arm line of perforations,the

graduated scales I, J and the line of perforations L, substantially asindicated.

' 3. The draftingdevice forapparel-patterns,

having the row of perforations 0 set on a compound curve, the graduatedscale D also arranged on a compound curve, the rows of perforations E,H, and the graduated scales 1, N and 0, said rows of perforationscurving upward from said scales, at the top and about midway thereof,respectively, all substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. The drafting device for apparel-patterns having the rows ofperforations P, P and Q,

Q, said row of perforations P arranged out of alinement with and belowthe row of perforationsP, and the row of perforationsP passingvertically through the rows of perforations Q,-the rows of perforationsQ arranged parallel with and above said rows of perforaberedperforations at the opposite end also converging inward and the scales,one arranged along each longitudinal edge thereof, substantially as setforth.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

HIRAM HERSOHEL TAYLOR.

Witnessesz.

DORA A. TAYLOR, MARGARET MoDERMoTT.

